Shoe welting and method of making the same



April 9, 1929. H.,LYoN ET AL 1,708,628

SHOE WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed March 29, 1928 0 3l 34'y( y RNEY Patented Apr. 1929.`

UNITED" STATES I PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY LYON', 0Fv HOLBROOK, AND LORENZO H. GILBON, 0I' BROCITOUN,IABSACHU- .SETTS, ASSIGNOBS TO PEBLEY BABBOUB, TRADING HARBOUR WELTINGOOI- PAN Y, F IBBOCKTON, IIAS'SLCHUSETT suon wEL'rnm AND neuron for mmerm: SAIE.

` 'Application led Iarch 29, 1928. Serial No. 265,677.

Thisinventionrelates to the manufacture of shoe welting and moreparticularly to two unit welting of the kind for giving a heavy edgeeffect to the Ashoe in which it is used..

f Heretofore it has been the'general practice to produce a heavy edge ona shoe by adding an intermediate sole and outseaming both soles to aGoodyear welt. The general obl ject of the present invention is toprovide the 10 same heavy edge on the shoe by a specially formedtwo-unit welt outseamed to the usual outsole only, thereby saving thevery considerable expense of the intermediate sole. There `is amplewearin a single sole, in factv with the double soledshoe re-soli-ng isdemanded by the owner upon wearing through to the intermediate sole, solthat this invention gives all the advantages heretofore attained butwith much less sole leather and the consequent saving of this expensivestock. Further objects of the invention are to produce heavy edgedwelting from two units in an economical manner while preserving theextension, retaining the shape insurance advantages of certain types ofbeaded Goodyear welting," providing an inner margin that will notinterfere with the sewing of a tight inseam, and insuring that thepreferred two-unit construction will have its units permanently securedafter embodiment in the shoe.

To the accomplishment of these objects and such others as mayhereinafter appear, the invention comprises the features ofconstruction, combination of parts and process of manufacturehereinafter described and then particularly pointed out in the a pendedclalms.

The preferred form of v'the invention is illustrated in the accompanyingdrawing, all

the views being in erspective., and in which Figure 1 is a view o thefillet before severing; Fig. 2 is a view of the fillet after severing;Fig'. 3 is a view of the two units prepared for assembly; Fig. 4 is aview ofthe two units asf.-

sembled but before molding;v Fig. 5 is a view 5 of the welting molded toshape and ready for sewing toa shoe and` .Fig-6 isa view of a --fportionof a Goodyearshoe having a single .jputsole and the welt of thisinvention emlsodied therein.

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawing the heavyweltin is obtalned by severing into two parts-a let 10 that is somewhatnarrower than twice the overall width of the finished welting. Forexample, for half-inch welting the fillet need be butthirteen-sixteenths of an inch wide and the process of the presentinvention effects a Eroportlonatesaving for other widths. The

llet 10 is severed into two parts, to produce a bottom unit 12 and a topunit 14, by a central longitudinal cut 15 (dotted lines Fig. 1) ofdouble-angle -form orl substantially Z- shaped. The two units are shownse arated in Fig. 2, the bottom unit having a s oulder 16 at its grainside G and the top unit having a shoulder 18 at its fleshside F. Thecentral portion of the cut 15 is in a plane parallel to the grain .sideof the fillet and is nearer to the f grain side producing a relativelythin grain flap 20 at the inner edge of the top unit. Also the shoulder18 on the top unit is formed by an end cut that is' oblique to the planeof the flesh -side of the fillet so as to produce a bevel 21 at theinner edge of the scarf on the bottom unit.. The shoulder cut 18 is sopositioned widthwise of the fillet that the overall l widtlrof thebottom unit `exactly the width desired for the finished welting and theshoulder cut 16'is preferably positioned to produce a top unit ofequaloverall width. The stitchrecelving'groove 22 (Fig. 5) in the grainside of the bottom unit 12 may be cut at any time but preferably is cutafter the fillet has been stripped.

Having stripped the fillet 10 as described, the bottom unit 12 may berepared for the preferred method of assem ly with the to unit by coatingthe entire flesh side, whic now becomes4 the'upper face of the bottomunit, with a tacky cement. The top unit 14 is then-laid above the,bottom unit 12 (Fig. 3), and its fiesh side is placed in contact withsaid cemented flesh side of the bottom unit, care being taken tomaintain the outer edges 24 flush with each other. This manner of surposng the two strips brin the two shoul ers 16- and 18 into verticalalignment and leaves v the two inner margins, thinned by the strippingcut, separated. The two separatedportions at the inner margin,"` arethen joined by pressing the flap 2O downward and inward against theshoulder 16 and into the angle be` low it until it contacts with thebottom unit thus producing a unitary thinned inner inargin. Thisoperation is preferably accomplished by rollers, or other suitablyshaped molds, that form up the assembled units while maintaining theiruncut edges 24 flush, or in the saine vertical plane. This step producesthe substantial inwardly facing shoulders 26 on the'top unit 14 abovethe stitch-receiving groove 22 which, when the welting is incorporatedin a shoe, lies opposite the edge of the insole and, by its support ofthis portion of the upper, serves to 'prevent running over. The width ofthe top unit is important in this respect since its seeurementby theoutseam stitching prevents any detachment from the upper. The grain flap2,0 insures the desired finished appearance over the upper corner of theshoulder 26.

The novel heavy welt is handled in one piece by the welt sewing machineoperator just as simply as Goodyear welting is handled. The bevel 21enables the inner margin to be bent and fitted snugly into the angle,beneath the feather of the insole 28 (Fig. 6) and the thinned innermargin 30 (Fig. 5) enables the operator to sew a tight inseam. It willbe observed that the inseam stitches 31 pass through both unitsA of theWelting, including the flap 20, thus anchoring the top unit to thebottom unit and drawing the shoeshape-holding shoulder 26 snugly againstthe upper 32. The two units are further secured by the outseam 33 andthe outsole 34.

rlhose skilled in the art may readily vary the `cut-ting to produce thetwo units or the shape of the units but all variations within the skillof the artisan are intentionally inelluded within the scope of theappended c anus.

'llie nature and scope of the inventiouhaving been indicated, and itspreferred einbodiment and the method of its manufacture having beenspecifically described, what is claimed as new, is

`1.` Two unit welt-ing in which eachl unit has an outer margin ofregular welt thickness and a thinned inner margin, the outer edges ofsaid outer margins being iiu'sh and the inner margins being joinedand'presenting a substantial inwardly facing shoulder.

2. Shoe welting comprising a bottom unitl having a thinned inner marginand a top unit having` arthinned inner margin presenting an inwardlyfacing shoulder between it and` the inner margin of the bottom unit,and' said two margins being joined to form a unitary inner margin whilemation.

3. Shoe welting comprising top and bottom' preserving said shoulderforthrough the Welt units each of the same overall width assem-y bledwith their outer edges flush, said bottom unit having a stitch-receivinggroove and said top unit having a portion of its inner margin removed topresent an inwardly facing shoulder above said groove- 4. Leather shoewelting comprising top and bottom units, said bottomunit having .thecomplete overall width 'of the weltiiig 'and being provided with astitch-receiving groove, and .said top unit presenting its grain sidewith an inner margin comprising a grain flap providing an inwardlyfacing shoulder above said groove, saidiap being laid against saidshoulder and the inner margin ,of said bottoni unit. v y

5. Two unit shoe welting comprising a bottom unit having an outer marginof full thickness, a top unit having a like outer mar-` gin and an innermargin undercut to form a flap at its inner edge, said flap beingsecured to the inner margin ofthe bottom unit.

6. Two unit shoe welting comprising a bottom unit having astitch-receiving groove, a top unit flush at its outer edge with saidbottom unithaving an inwardly facing shoulder above said groove and athinned margin overlying the margin o f said bottomunit inward of saidshoulder.

' 7. vThe method of making two unit'leather welt-ing which comprisesstripping a fillet longitudinally with a central double angle cut toproduce atop unit strip having a grain fiap at its inner edgeterminating in a flesh side shoulder and a bottom unit strip having 10oa grain side shoulder at its inner margin, assembling said strips withthe flesh of said top unit against the liesh of said bottom unit, andpressing said Hap into the angle spaced at the inner margin formed bythus assembling said units. Y

8. The methodof making two unit leather welting which comprises forminga bottoni unit strip having a stitch-receiving groove in itsvinnermargin at its under side, forming ing a top unit strip having the fleshat its inner margin removed -leaving a grain flap and a flesh shoulder,superposing said strips wi-th their outer edges flush and with the fiesh`shoulder of the top unit above said groove in. the bottom unit, andsecuring said flap to the inner margin of the bottom unit.

9. The method of making two unit welt-ing which comprises stripping afillet longitudinally with a central double angle cut, the cen- "tralportion thereof being parallel to the faces ofsaid fillet and the twoend portions emerging at the opposite faces, respectively,

vand forming together the portions inward of said shoulder to produce athinned inner mar- D 10. The method of making two unit leather Weltingwhich comprises stripping a fillet the two strips thus produced withtheir unlongitudinally with a central Z-shaped out out edges flush andthe thinned margins 'the bar of which is parallel to the'grain sideformed by said stripping cut separated, and 10 of the fillet and theends of which emerge finally forminga, single unitary margin from fromthe grain and flesh sides thereof, the said two thinned margins.

end cut emerging from the flesh side being HARRY LYON.

oblique to the plane. of said side, superposing LORENZO H. GILSON.

